March 2010

Believe it or not, Spring is on its way. It seems like it has been winter forever and your lawn, trees, and shrubs will show it as they work to come out of dormancy. Over the long winter, these plants have used up their food reserves and will now greatly benefit from spring fertilization. Early green-up and spring root growth are important so that the plant recovers from harsh weather and resumes healthy growth as the temperatures warm up.

You may recall, that during the middle week of February, there was one day in which every one of the 48 contiguous states either had snow on the ground or had snow flurries. A good friend of mine from Pensacola had his very first snowball fight at age 60! The eastern seaboard continually got hit with snow storm after snow storm from before Christmas through the end of February. The problem for turfgrass and ornamental plants is that they can't come inside when cold weather hits again and again.. They can't put on their heavy coat and warm gloves. They must sit there and take it with the hope that they survive winter and respond to proper care this spring. Weaker plants might have used up heir last reserves, begin to grow again for a few weeks, and then die back.

Thus early spring care of the lawn and landscape may be more important in 2010 than it has been in many years.

Bob Andrews
Owner, The Greenskeeper

Fall 2009

After going through a very dry September, October arrived to provide Hoosiers with a record 22 days of lower than normal temperatures. Once those, along with much needed rain set in, our central Indiana growing conditions improved dramatically. Grass almost looks like it does in late April and May and this will be very beneficial to the plant as it prepares for winter.

Pre-winter fertilization is now starting and will be continuing until nearly Christmas. This time frame is important to the plant because it will gradually shut down it's upward growth and lose color. As it does, the root system contiues to be active and any fertilization done during this period almost all goes toward root development and food reserves. It also helps prepare the plant for next season and allows it to come out of dormancy more quickly, in better overall health, and with good color.

Continue mowing your lawn at a high level until the last two or three cuts when the mowing level should be shortened so that the leaf blades do not lay over on themselves during the winter months. Such matting can damage the plant just as much as accumulated leaves. Leaf removal should be done once in early November and once again after all leaves have fallen so that none lay in the yard over the coming winter months.

If you have an irrigation system, it should be closed by having it blown out so that the lines do not hold water during freezing temperatures this winter. Proper maintenance of your irrigation system now will save you a great deal on costly repairs next spring.

Remember to call our office at 846-7131 with any questions about pre-winter fertilization, to schedule irrigation system turn-off, or for more information on lawn mower and snow blower maintenance.

SEPTEMBER 2009

September and October are great months to consider core aeration for your lawn. The Greenskeeper teamed up with Angie's List and WISH 8 to create this informative video on preparing your lawn for winter:

click here to view video

AUGUST 2009

July 2009 was the coolest July in the history of Indiana. We had no ninety degree days the entire month in the greater Indianapolis area. What a change from 2007 and 2008 when it got hot early and stayed that way until mid September.

Such growing conditions bring on their own set of challenges. Due to persistent rainfall all spring and into the summer months, virtually every type of weed continues to grow in our lawn and landscape. Indeed, many homeowners have told me not only of the variety of weeds seen, but their sheer size. This fall will indeed be a good time to concentrate on weed control going into winter.

Turfgrass disease is also present due to humidity and other conducive factors. The biggest problem areas are in newer sodded lawns which have a thick thatch layer conducive to such fungus. Treating with fungicides is a good option. More long term is to consider core aeration every fall in order to break-up accumulated thatch and improve drainage.

Fertilization in mid to late summer will be designed to promote root growth and provide the lawn with some color.Our summer fertilization contains some very slow release materials as well as iron.

Finally, while we have had good rainfalls, it is important to remember that clay soils dry out as quickly as they get wet. Supplemental water is required in order that the lawn receive at least one hour of rainfall or watering each week. If you are able to water your lawn, do so in the early morning and water for 30 minutes in each sprinkler location. Doing so twice or three times a week will provide the grass plant with the moisture it needs to remain cool and growing during the summer months.

Bob Andrews
Owner
The Greenskeeper, Inc.

JULY 2009

After much higher than normal rainfall into late spring, we now have seemed to arrive at summer in Indiana. Hot and dry weather in the last half of June quickly changed growing conditions in our lawn and landscapes. This is particularly true in our Bluegrass lawns which generally are at their best when temperatures are in the seventies and rainfall is routine. Fortunately, while we had a few very hot days, local temperatures have stayed comfortable and I even wore a long sleeve shirt to the July 4th parade!

However, summer weather will bring its own set of challenges. Turfgrass does need water, not only to stay green, but to stay cool as our temperatures increase. If we don't have regular rains, then you should try and water the lawn two or three times a week. Water for 40 to 45 minutes in each sprinkler location allowing the ground to then dry out a couple of days before watering again. As always, try and avoid watering after dark in hot weather since that combination promotes disease.

Watering early in the morning or late in the afternoon will produce best results. Note that this is also insect season in which such things as sod webworms, chinchbugs, and grubs infest the lawn and landscape. Please call us should you have any concerns about their presence on your property. Often, insect damage first looks like the effects of very dry weather so it never hurts to inquire about weakness or discoloration in your lawn.

JUNE 2009

Wet weather still dominates the growing conditions this spring. While we should not complain, such weather does encourage weed growth and may result in an early breakdown of pre-emergent crabgrass control whose effectiveness is compromised by two much water.

As we move into June, both temperatures and humidity should show a gradual increase. Hopefully, we will not see a complete stop in our rainfall as has been the case during the previous two summers. Surface feeding insects will arrive along with warmer temperatures. Sod Webworms, Chinch Bugs, and Bill Bugs all feed on the leaf blade of the grass plant. Their damage is almost never fatal but does result in a discoloration which often resembles drought damage if the weather is hot and dry.

Watering becomes necessary as the weather turns warmer. Bluegrass lawns should be watered two to three times a week during dry weather periods. It is best to water in the early morning or late afternoon for about 30 to 45 minutes in each sprinkler location. Try to avoid watering after dark and remember that sodded lawns will require more watering than seeded lawns during hot weather.